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Our first introduction to a brand can often set the stage for our initial relationship with it. That can be especially tricky for small brands launching their first model, hoping to latch onto an enthusiast market. So when I lay this all out for you, keep that in mind.
London has been close to the top of my list of travel destinations for quite some time, so even when seven hours of flight delays burned my only free night before British Watchmakers Day, I was still teeming with excitement just to be going. That same energy, though, began to slowly leave my body, as Zach Kazan and I made our way to the upstairs section of the pub where we hosted our meetup with Arken. Ken graciously provided us with a bottle of whisky, ensuring my tumbler stayed wet as the growing crowd conversed around us, and the conversation grew loud. It was then that I met Thomas Hill—a warm, soft-spoken individual who, like me, seemed more at home on the periphery of the crowd than in its throes. It was in that setting, in the middle of the conversation that I thought had been going well, that Tom looked right at me and called me a nimrod. Or so I thought. Seeing the puzzlement on my face, he laughed, put me out of my misery, and produced a trio of sample watches adorned with the name “Nimrod” on the dial. Thus, I was properly introduced to his brand, Abinger.
Joking aside, Tom was very polite and a bit sheepish about showing off his project, as they were his first prototypes of the model, yet not meant to be the brand’s launching point. Setting out as many do, Tom simply wanted to create a watch with the core design elements he wanted in a watch, but struggled to find elsewhere. The Nimrod was a continuation of his original design, adding further adventurous elements like the bezel and crown guards meant to take on the rigours of expeditions like its namesake, Ernest Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition, the first of three arctic expeditions led by the famous man. What Tom also did not account for was the fact that the name Nimrod had been used in America in the Looney Tunes cartoons to chastise Elmer Fudd for his lack of hunting prowess. Once the name of a biblical hunter, the name Nimrod was easily substituted for “idiot” in old-time American households.
Spoiled for choice in the modern market, it can be tough for a new brand to launch a dive watch that can stand out. Interesting name aside, the Nimrod has a few other points that distinguish it from the substantial competition on the market. In terms of dimensions, choice in specifications for the targeted price point, and design language, the Nimrod managed to pique my interest when so many other microbrand dive watches seem to fade into obscurity. As mentioned before, the goal was to fill a void, and while it may overlap in plenty of categories, there are a few aspects that may lead some to consider the Nimrod as their go-to daily diver. Borrowing inspiration from other infamous sports watches that were designed for adventure rather than tactical purposes, the Nimrod crafts a refined wearing package that doesn’t shy away from a challenge.
With a restrained case diameter of 38mm (38.5 at the bezel, which has a slight overhang), the bantam-weight 200-meter diver will relieve those who find traditional dive watches a bit too large. Its ability to slide in under 11mm thick means that, despite the inclusion of a dive bezel, the Nimrod wears as if it were a simple three-handed dress watch. While 45mm lug-to-lug is pretty average for the case diameter, this watch will wear very well on a wide variety of wrists without feeling small on those like myself with large wrists, while still finding a home on those sitting closer to 6 inches in diameter. The wearing experience is quite comfortable on the brushed h-link bracelet, tapering from 20mm at the quick release spring bars to 16mm, meeting the milled clasp. Thanks to screwed-in links and an on-the-fly adjustable clasp, finding the right fit is simple, though if you are struggling, you can swap over to the color-matched canvas straps with a similar taper. A hardened coating on both case and bracelet helps preserve the original finishing, allowing the watch to retain its look long before visible wear sets in.
In terms of architecture, the Nimrod is relatively simple, with brushing covering its entire surface. However, due to the bezel’s proud nature, most of the case is hidden away, apart from the protruding lugs and crown guards. Flipping the watch over reveals the see-through case back, which holds a view of the Miyota caliber winding away beneath. Given the utilitarian finishing of the movement, I’d have preferred a closed steel case back—ideal for engravings and possibly a slimmer overall profile. A slight visual difference I looked at quite often was the gap between the crown and its guards, as this space is typically smaller. However, after wearing the watch for a little while, I can happily report that at no point did I ever have anything lodged or caught in the gap. It allowed for easier manipulation of the crown, though it may be something to keep an eye on in the future. Bezel action is excellent as the 120-click unidirectional bezel easily snaps into place thanks to the grippy coin edge. Set inside is a steel bezel insert DLC coated in matte black with BGW9 lumed 12-hour markers. The visual design is quite minimal and visually pleasing, leaving room for the rest of the details to add vibrancy.
Under the sapphire crystal with excellent antireflective coating sits the multilayered dial, again leaning on minimal design to push clean legibility. At the outer edge, a brushed steel disk holds the minute track while connecting the case to the dial design. Resting beneath is the radial sunburst dial in one of three colors: Green, Brown, or Black. For my review, I opted for the Green coloration as it was the one dial that stood out to me all those months ago, even in the fading light of that London pub. Truly coming to life in the light, the dial remains subtle at extreme angles, offering a hint of its true self only to fully express itself as you raise the watch to meet your eye. In stark contrast, white BGW9 hour markers extend from the dial’s surface, utilizing Abinger’s unique typeface at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 for distinction. Standard sharpened pencil hands with their own generous portion of lume handle time telling, continuing in the theme of excellent contrast, instant legibility, and reading ease. The small pop of color used to print the namesake Nimrod at 6 is a nice touch as it adds a bit of flair, fun, and design to a watch that may seem like a simple diver at first glance, only to reveal itself as a reserved designer’s playground the more you look at it. Flip the watch over, and the story continues through a see-through case back revealing the Miyota movement within.
Abinger has decided to go with the capable automatic Miyota 9039 caliber on the inside, which has proven itself in countless other models on the market. This particular caliber allows for a lower hand clearance than its popular sibling, the 9015, creating the possibility for its thinner architecture. A non-date movement operating at 4hz, the 9039 achieves a capable power reserve of 42 hours and, in this case, has been regulated to achieve an accuracy rating of -10 to +15 seconds per day. While it might not be a revolutionary movement, it is a solid inclusion, especially considering the £650 retail price (£499 during pre-order). During my time with the Nimrod I found it running well within spec and happened to know that the watchmaker behind the regulation comes with an excellent reputation, having worked closely with another very popular micro brand.
Abinger’s Nimrod doesn’t reinvent the dive watch, but it doesn’t have to. With capable specs, refined proportions, and an adventurous spirit, it’s a strong debut that could easily become a go-to daily driver for enthusiasts seeking a clean, confident tool watch. Its modest dimensions and slim profile make it an appealing option for those who find traditionally large dimensions overbearing. At the same time, the robust construction and adventurous design language are unrelenting in their intended purpose. It may not be a revolutionary design, but the minimal approach is a refreshing take on an adventurous tool watch. The Nimrod is a strong debut model poised to be an excellent entry grab-and-go option for enthusiasts looking for an understated yet competent timepiece. Abinger
