There is a good possibility that Girard-Perregaux may remain an if-you-know-you-know pick when it comes to the luxury watch market, but it’s not for lack of trying. Its recent vintage reissue, partnerships with Aston Martin F1, and focus on different sizing options with unique design languages indicates their desire for mainstream acceptance. Despite these efforts, competitors like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe still seem to overshadow the brand and dominate the hyped up market space when discussing integrated bracelet sports watches with heritage designs. With their latest release, Girard-Perregaux is aiming to showcase its technical know-how and craftsmanship pedigree rather than following the same tired trends like so many others in the space. Emphasizing its in-house ground-up construction, the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Enamel Infinite Grey leans into the initial under-the-radar vibes to snatch your attention with interesting new details. However, they do come at a price.
Case
It should be a known quantity at this point, but I still find myself surprised at the case architecture and finishing almost every time I handle a Laureato. At first glance, it presents as many other integrated bracelet watches do, with a hefty presence and no shortage of conspicuous steel. Though the more time you spend poring over its blend of straight and curved lines, the more you appreciate the visual cohesion between angular and organic. Bouncing between polished and finely brushed surfaces, the integrated bracelet steel sports watch epitomizes the boardroom to bar vibe, finding a home on the wrist of the stockbroker taking the edge off at market close.
At 42 millimeters in diameter, the Laureato provides adequate space for its details to shine while using technical prowess to avoid overpowering midsized wrists. The thin 10.68 millimeter case lies flat until its abrupt curve begins towards the bracelet on the relatively short lugs. Due to its fine horizontal brushing, I have always found that the lugs seem to stutter a bit while making the arc, though it is a detail only noticeable in direct light and by the ultra-picky like myself. Breaking up the brushed surface is a hairline polished facet on the case’s outer edge, easing the transition to the vertically brushed case sides. A polished disk provides a step up towards the bezel while cultivating a tumultuous love-hate relationship with the wearer. While this bit of polishing feels like an extension of the dial, elevating the design’s visual appeal, it also acts as a dust catcher, only reachable by the edge of a cloth. While I’d never advocate for its removal, I highly suggest having a few Q-Tips ready to plunge into the sharp corner should you want to take a few macro photos. Set just above, the octagonal bezel protects the crystal, allowing its brushed sloping surface to pick up minor bumps and scuffs without much visual indication.
Bracelet/Wearability
As alluded to when mentioning the case, its shape and relatively short 48.9 millimeter lug-to-lug measurement allow this watch to fit the masses regardless of wrist size and despite its large diameter. Most of that is thanks to the bracelet, which, with an integrated design, is crucial to get right. The three-link design again blends brushing and polishing to elevate its appearance with enough articulation to drape nicely for a comfortable fit. Much to the photographer’s chagrin, the polished central link tends to hold every fingerprint possible, while the brushed outer links limit visual wear. Following the aggressive to gradual taper, the bracelet terminates at a debossed GP butterfly clasp, which may make finding the perfect fit difficult due to its lack of micro-adjustment. That aside, the smaller nature of the links closest to the clasp should help get it close enough to be comfortable for everyday use. Overall, the Laureato is a delightful watch to throw on and forget about until called upon.