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There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence—not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant—it obviously is—but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field.
Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question
Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones—it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.”
The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem differently: the Raymond Weil and NOMOS are true worldtimers with city rings, while the Grand Seiko is a traditional GMT with a fixed 24-hour bezel—only the Longines and Tudor offer rotating bezels for tracking a third timezone.
First Impressions: Solid Without the Swagger
On paper, 39mm sounds modest in today’s market, but on my 7.25-inch wrist, it hit the sweet spot perfectly. Not too big, not too small, and crucially, still legible. The matte black dial with rose gold accents reads clearly without being flashy—a balance that Longines has been refining for decades.
The case construction immediately telegraphs quality. The brushed stainless steel feels substantial without being heavy, and that 18-karat rose gold insert on the bidirectional rotating bezel isn’t just decorative—it’s the first time Longines has used this material combination in the Spirit collection. The weight distribution feels right in the hand, substantial enough to feel premium but not so heavy that it becomes tiresome over a long day.
The Details That Matter
The crown deserves special mention. Large and well-fluted, with a tapered profile that extends prominently from the case, it makes winding and setting feel like operating precision equipment—exactly what you want from an aviation-themed watch. The sloped design and substantial projection give you plenty to grip, making operation intuitive even with gloves on. This isn’t a delicate dress watch crown; it’s built for use, built for pilots who might need to set the time while wearing gloves. Though I have to wonder how many people will actually use it that way.
The bezel operation, however, is where my enthusiasm dims slightly. While the bidirectional rotation works smoothly, the detents are small and lack the satisfying tactile feedback I was hoping for. It’s not unpleasant, but it doesn’t inspire the same confidence as the Tudor’s more pronounced clicks.
The quick-change strap system, on the other hand, is brilliant. Obvious to use (in the best way) and satisfying when it clicks into place. The watch comes with both a steel bracelet and a black nylon strap, and swapping between them takes seconds. It’s one of those features that seems simple until you realize how well it’s been executed.
The date window at 6 o’clock deserves particular praise—it’s one of those details that will satisfy even the pickiest dial aperture critics. Rather than the stark white window that often mars otherwise beautiful dials, this one blends seamlessly into the matte black surface. The aperture size hits a sweet spot too: not quite the “jumbo” date window of something like a Lange Datograph, but refreshingly larger than those tiny, squinting-required apertures found on most watches. It’s a medium-sized window that feels proportional to the dial and doesn’t make you reach for reading glasses.
Movement and Finishing
Flip the watch over and you’re greeted with one of the more attractive exhibition casebacks in this price range. The Longines calibre L844.4 automatic movement features traditional finishing techniques including pearlage, and the rose gold rotor is engraved with a beautiful world map and the watch’s name. It’s COSC chronometer-certified with a 72-hour power reserve and silicon balance spring for anti-magnetic properties—solid technical specs that justify the premium over entry-level GMT watches.
Looking at the movement through the sapphire caseback, you can appreciate the care that went into its decoration. The rotor’s engraved planisphere is particularly striking, with the Prime Meridian subtly marked—a nice touch that reinforces the watch’s travel theme. Though let’s be honest, you’re probably not buying this to stare at the caseback.
Wearability and Presence
The bracelet clasp feels genuinely premium—not quite Tudor Pelagos-solid, but leagues ahead of entry-level offerings. The haptic click when it closes is satisfying, and the overall construction inspires confidence for daily wear. The watch sits comfortably under a shirt cuff but has enough visual interest to work with casual wear.
One design element that really works is the five stars embedded above 6 o’clock on the dial. They balance the composition beautifully and add a touch of prestige without feeling overwrought. Also, the “1925–2025” engraving on the caseback is subtle enough not to date the watch in a few years—a smart move from Longines.
Comparisons and Value
Against the Tudor Black Bay GMT, the Longines feels more refined but perhaps less robust. The Tudor’s ceramic bezel insert and more pronounced tool watch aesthetics might appeal to those who want their GMT to double as a sports watch. The Longines, conversely, feels more suited to business travel and formal occasions—it’s the watch you wear to catch flights to important meetings, not to go diving in the Caribbean (though it’ll handle a pool just fine).
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900) offers superior finishing and movement technology, but at a significant price premium and with a fixed 24-hour bezel rather than the rotating functionality found on the Longines. The Raymond Weil Freelancer ($3,175) provides similar functionality at a lower price point, but lacks the historical significance and finishing quality of the Longines.
The NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100) takes a completely different approach with its pusher-operated city ring, offering a more contemporary interpretation of world time displays. It’s beautiful but perhaps less practical for frequent travelers who need quick, intuitive access to multiple time zones.
Who’s It For? (And Is It Worth It?)
The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is for collectors who appreciate historical significance wrapped in modern reliability. It’s not groundbreaking—Longines played it safe with this release—but it’s an extremely solid execution of a classic complication. This feels like a gateway product into serious Longines collecting, offering premium materials and finishing at a more accessible price point than their flagship pieces.
At $4,350, it sits in that challenging middle ground between truly accessible GMT watches and luxury alternatives. You’re paying for Longines’ heritage, quality finishing, and the satisfaction of owning a piece that commemorates a genuine horological milestone. While it may not offer the tool watch ruggedness of a Tudor or the technical wizardry of a Grand Seiko, it succeeds at being exactly what it sets out to be: a refined, historically-informed travel watch that does its job with quiet competence.
For the traveler who values subtlety over flash, history over hype, it’s a compelling choice. Just don’t expect it to revolutionize your GMT expectations—sometimes being very good at the basics is enough. And in a world where watch enthusiasts often chase the next big thing, there’s something refreshing about a timepiece that simply does what it promises to do, does it well, and doesn’t make a big fuss about it. Longines
